We’ve been sampling a lot of wines from the Rioja region of northern Spain recently. We were shocked at how many great values are coming from this region.
Rioja, one of the largest wine-producing regions in Spain, dates back to Roman times. Established as a “Designation of Origin” (DO) in 1933, it was first to be recognized abroad. Yet even with today’s competition from emerging regions south of it, Rioja is better known in the U.S.
It is divided into three zones: Rioja Alta, Rioja Oriental and Rioja Alavese. Although many producers blend grapes from all regions, there is a more-recent effort to create single-zone wines.
Red wines — often a combination of tempranillo, garnacha, graciano and mazuelo — dominate exports, but we’ve recently tasted many interesting white wines from here, especially malvasia and verdejo. Producers are also blending traditional Bordeaux grapes, such as cabernet sauvignon and merlot. The heavy use of American oak adds layers of flavors — coconut, vanilla and spice.
How long red wine is aged in barrel is noted on the label — a unique marketing effort to imply quality. Crianza is aged one year in oak and one year in bottle. Riserva wines spend at least one year in oak — often more — and cannot be released until three years after bottling. Gran Reserva wines spend at least two years in barrel and another three years in bottle. There aren’t many regions that hold their wines this long and are still able to maintain a reasonable price.
Here are a few we recently discovered:
Bodegas Olarra Cerro Ano Gran Reserva Rioja 2015 ($26). Wow, what a wine. Deep in color, it has cherry and citrus aromas with ripe berry flavors and hints of cocoa powder and coffee.
Bodegas Beronia Crianza Rioja 2019 ($15). We have seen this wine on many restaurant wine lists and it is a good value. Bright and simple red berry notes with a dash of tobacco and vanilla.
Bodegas Beronia Reserva Rioja 2018 ($25). For a few bucks more, you get more complexity and age in this nicely honed rioja. Graciano and mazuelo are added to the tempranillo to give it a broader, more full-bodied dimension. Ripe plum and dark berry flavor with a smooth finish with a dash of hazelnuts and chocolate.
Bodegas Beronia Tempranillo Elaboracion Especial Rioja 2021 ($22). You can find this terrific wine for under $20 if you look hard. And, it’s worth the effort. Juicy plum and dark fruit flavors with hints of vanilla and oak. Fermented in American oak, it has a breezy, easy-to-drink style.
Bodegas Fundadas La Rioja Alta Vina Ardanza Reserva 2016 ($42). Given the labor that goes into this tempranillo/garnacha blend, we’re surprised it’s this cheap. Good producers like this one rack the wine twice a year for three years, then age it in barrels for another three years. And, it still tastes young. Supple tannins, black cherry and raspberry notes with a dash of spice, vanilla and cedar. Decant this wine before serving.
La Mal-Dita Garnacha Rioja 2022 ($17). Based on old-vines grown on high-altitude vineyards, this grenache has ripe strawberry and cherry notes.
Ramon Bilbao Reserva Rioja 2016 ($32). The aging makes a difference is this forward and soft blend of tempranillo, graciano and mazuelo. Spicy and oak-infused flavors of vanilla toast mingle with blackberry and black pepper flavors.
Ramon Bilbao Rueda Verdejo 2022 ($19). You need to try verdejo, our new favorite white wine grape that is reasonably priced and loaded with bright, fresh fruit for summer sipping. White peach and citrus notes make it a tangy response to light fare.
Bodegas Valdemar Conde Valdemar Reserva Rioja 2015 ($30). Garnacha, graciano and maturana join tempranillo (79%) to make a wonderful quaff that has bright, youthful character. Strawberry notes with hints of spice and toffee.
Bodegas Montecillo Reserva Rioja 2015 ($20). A little manzuelo is added to the tempranillo of this full-bodied and voluptuous wine. Blackberry and plum aromas leap from the glass. There is a hint of licorice and coffee on the palate along with the classic, oak-inspired vanilla.
Campillo el Sueno Rioja 2021 ($19). This pleasant and quaffable blend of chardonnay and viura has some nice citrus notes with a good dose of oak.
Ontanon Tempranillo Blanco 2022 ($18). This unusual wine has intense pineapple aromas and luscious stone fruit flavors.
An Italian meal
It’s not uncommon for an Italian wine producer to also make olive oil. C’mon, it’s Italy. But we happened to take pleasure in pasta and olive oil made by the Frescobaldi family.
Tirrena Past is cultivated from ancient grains grown in Tuscany’s fresh soil and mild climate. It is made entirely of Tuscan wheat. Laudemio Frescobaldi Extra Virgin Olive Oil dates back to the Middle Ages and is made from the best part of the harvest. Put it all together with a bottle of Tenuta Ammiraglia Masso Vivo 2022 ($22), a vermentino that would marry well with some seafood in that pasta.
Wine picks
Waypoint Terra de Promissio Pinot Noir 2021 ($60). This Sonoma Coast pinot noir has fresh raspberry and blackberry notes with a dash of dried rosemary.
Textbook Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($27). Reasonably priced, this solid cabernet sauvignon is a favorite of many restaurants we visit. For the price, you get a lot of plump red fruit flavor with a hint of vanilla and plum. Textbook also makes a tasty reserve cabernet sauvignon from Napa Valley fruit ($46) that delivers more concentration and body.
Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr have been writing a weekly, syndicated wine column since 1985. See their blog at moreaboutwine.com. They can be reached at marq1948@gmail.com.