Back Creek is an astonishing body of water with a fascinating history. Not really a flowing creek at all, but a tidal estuary less than a mile long, Back Creek has more than 1,200 boats of all descriptions filling the slips in a dozen commercial marinas and at scores of private piers.
There are more marine-oriented businesses lining its shores than anywhere between Newport, Rhode Island, and Fort Lauderdale, Florida. Where the mouth of the creek opens into the Severn River, that’s probably the busiest square mile of water anywhere on the East Coast, especially during special events like this past week’s Blue Angels demonstration.
And yet, there are quiet coves where a paddler can find repose, even with the cacophony of a half dozen Boeing F/A-18 Super Hornets screaming overhead. I was hoping to get out on the water early enough on Tuesday, the day of the squadron’s practice run, so I could be back home before the show started.
Millie, our wonder retriever, was coming with me as usual, and I didn’t want her to get freaked out by the racket. But we got out late and the Angels were early, yet to my surprise, Millie wasn’t phased at all when the first jets roared by, seemingly at mast-height. What a good dog. And what a great boat dog.
I had arranged to take out a tandem kayak from Capital SUP’s new location at Nautilus Point, the complex in Eastport formerly known as Watergate. Capital SUP’s main location is at Quiet Waters Park. A third location is opening at the Point Crab House on the Magothy River. When Millie and I arrived at Nautilus Point, the kayak was waiting for us on the bulkhead by Dock C.
I brought the dog mat that Millie uses as a bed from the back of the car and placed it over the bow seat. Millie hopped right on it. The kayak was one of the sit-on-top types, not my favorite, since your butt is bound to get wet.
But it’s easier to get in and out of than a typical kayak with a cockpit, though there’s never any way to do so gracefully, no matter what type of kayak you choose. Millie tested her sea legs as the wake from a passing boat gave us a little rock and roll, but then she settled down on her mat to enjoy the ride.
We paddled across the creek to the wooded bluff with the tall blue water tower poking above the tree line. This is the site of the Ellen O. Moyer Back Creek Nature Park, now under the aegis of the Annapolis Maritime Museum.
As the jets rocketed into the stratosphere to spin their looped vapor trails through the sky, several little barn swallows flitted by, and it occurred to me that these birds could achieve much more intricate aerobatic antics than the Blue Angels ever could — tighter turns, more dramatic dives, swifter swoops — and all without the deafening macho mega-decibels.
The Angels shared the sky with a number of birds that morning: A laconic great blue heron, a high-flying black vulture and an osprey or two, none of whom seemed phased by the air show.
A pair of Canada geese paddled by, ushering four newly hatched goslings between them. Apparently, they chose to rear their young here on Back Creek rather than on the icy slopes of western Greenland. Fortunately, Millie opted to not go in swimming with them.
We paddled back across the creek to a secluded unnamed cove tucked in behind Nautilus Point. At the end of this cove is the outfall from the stream restoration project at St. Luke’s Church in Eastport. There’s a 180-degree view of nothing but trees and marsh. It was so serene, you might think you were somewhere on the Eastern Shore.
Back Creek is marked on the oldest maps as “Hill’s Back Creek.” From the mid-1600s to the mid- 1700s, the Horn Point peninsula and most of what we now think of as Eastport was owned by the Hill family and used as pastureland for horses and farm stock.
In 1761, the land was inherited by Henrietta Margaret Hill. Henrietta, known as “Henry,” was only 10 years old at the time. In 1774, at the age of 23, she married Benjamin Ogle and would become Maryland’s First Lady from 1798 to 1801 when Ogle served as one of the state’s early governors.
Ogle died in 1809 in Annapolis, leaving his estate to Henry, who lived until 1815. According to his last wishes, Ogle’s body was buried in an unmarked grave. I have no idea where to find Henry’s grave, either, but as the poet wrote,
“Ben let it be known that none should despair
When fate cut his noble life short;
If eternal contentment were Ben Ogle’s aim,
Where else would he lie but Eastport?”
As we passed the street-end park on Sixth Street, I heard someone call my name and there, standing on the end of a pier, was my new friend Dan Bornstein, whom I’d met at a recent Maritime Republic of Eastport event. Bornstein was nice enough to take some photos of Millie and me as we chatted. We made it safely back to the dock as the jets wound up their practice run.
Here are a few tips on paddling in Annapolis city waters:
- Stay out of the way. Water taxis, tour boats and gigundo motor yachts are operated by professional captains who just might be able to see you and respond in time if you get in their way, but privately owned boats may not be operated so responsibly — or soberly. Stay out of the channel to be safe. If you do have to cross, watch for traffic and make it quick.
- Please don’t go up Market Slip, known colloquially as “Ego Alley.” Sure, it’s fun to be seen by all the tourists, but the slip can be ridiculously busy with boats, all maneuvering in an extraordinarily tight channel. For this reason, I think it’s crazy to consider putting a kayak rental operation at City Dock. It’s just asking for trouble when you inject inexperienced paddlers into one of the world’s busiest harbors.
- Stay close to shore when you round Horn Point, where it’s too shallow for most powerboats to run.
- Watch the western horizon for storm clouds. Get a weather radar app for your smartphone and keep your phone in a waterproof case or dry bag. I have a dedicated waterproof camera.
- Always wear a personal floatation device. I prefer the inflatable type. They’re so lightweight you hardly notice you’re wearing them.
Here are some resources for canoe, kayak and stand-up paddleboard rentals and guided tours:
Annapolis Canoe & Kayak
- 311 Third Street (Eastport)
- Annapolis, MD 21403
- annapoliscanoeandkayak.com
- 410-263-2303
Capital SUP (3 locations)
- Quiet Waters Park
- 600 Quiet Waters Park Rd, Annapolis, MD 21403
- Nautilus Point (formerly Watergate)
- 655 Americana Drive, Dock C (Eastport), Annapolis, MD 21403
- Point Crab House
- 700 Mill Creek Road, Arnold, MD 21012
- Capitalsup.com
- 410-919-9402
Chesapeake Paddle Sports
- 629 Deale Rd, Deale, MD 20751
- Chesapeakepaddlesports.com
- 443-221-9732
Paddle Annapolis
- 326 First Street, (Eastport), Annapolis, MD 21403
- Paddle-annapolis.com
- 410-980-3911
Smithsonian Environmental Research Center
- 647 Contees Wharf Road, Edgewater, MD 21037
- Serc.si.edu
- 443-482-2200
Terrapin Adventures
- Savage Mill
- 8600 Foundry Street, Savage, MD 20763
- Terrapinadventures.com
- 301-725-1313