When Daniel and Lisa Restum took over Ale Mary’s this summer, they promised to preserve the holy spirit of the Fells Point corner bar with a Catholic theme.
Preserve it they have, down to keeping many of the same staffers that have worked there for years. But the new owners are also starting some traditions of their own — including “Christmas on Fleet,” one of Baltimore’s merriest new Yuletide pop-ups.
The column this week will spread some holiday cheer with more on the seasonal transformation and others like it throughout the city. I also have an update on duckpin bowling’s return on Eastern Avenue — now with beer and cocktails — as well as some personal news to share as we head into 2025.
‘We really just went to town’
Like any number of businesses this time of year, the entrance to Ale Mary’s is trimmed with garland and lights. It’s once you walk inside, though, that you’re really overcome with the holiday spirit.
The space is covered in Christmas kitsch: red, green and silver tinsel and twinkling multicolored bulbs as far as the eye can see; ornaments hanging from the ceiling; glittery bows and wrapping paper paneling on the walls. There’s a “Fra-gee-lay” lamp from “A Christmas Story” and a “humbug corner” with Grinch-themed decor, “in case someone is acting out,” says owner Daniel Restum. (They haven’t had to use it yet.)
Much of the credit for the festive decor goes to his wife and Ale Mary’s co-owner, Lisa Restum. Late last month, she rounded up her sisters, friends and the bar’s staff for an all-hands-on-deck decorating extravaganza that totaled, in all, about 100 hours of manpower, by Daniel’s estimate.
“We just really went to town and hoped the neighborhood would respond,” he said. “And they really did.”
Though Ale Mary’s has a roster of devoted regulars, the Christmas pop-up is also bringing in new faces. Word — and video — of the bar’s holiday theme is spreading on social media thanks to the help of local influencers.
“In a post-COVID hospitality environment, as a restaurant you almost have to compete for people’s attention, and you have to provide for more than maybe you once did,” Daniel said. “I think that atmosphere aspect is so important.”
That seems to be the strategy for a growing number of local bars and restaurants that are also adorning bar tops and dining rooms with seasonal touches. Though Baltimore has had a handful of such pop-ups in prior years, 2024 so far seems to be serving an extra helping of holiday cheer. Among the drinking and dining spots that are decking the halls are Golden West Cafe in Hampden, Dutch Courage in Old Goucher, Sally O’s in Highlandtown, SoPro in Canton and Prima Dopo in Fells Point.
Irish bar Slainte, also in Fells, has a nightly “snowfall” on the sidewalk out front. At Power Plant Live in Downtown Baltimore, the holiday-themed Miracle Bar is back at the Leinie Lodge & Beer Garden for another round.
Before owning Ale Mary’s, the Restums were enthusiastic about decorating their own home for the holidays, though bar ownership hasn’t left much time for that this year. Ale Mary’s was where the couple had their second date, and nowadays it’s become their living room of sorts, where they spend much of their time.
Daniel knows his bar is in competition with the comfort of the couch and the soft glow of the lights of the Christmas tree at home. “So many people improved the atmosphere of their own homes during COVID, so why would they want to leave?” he said. “You have to convince people to get out.”
Though boosting business was his goal, he’s still been a bit taken aback by just how many people are turning out for Ale Mary’s holiday makeover. A special Christmas-themed menu with Mistletoe Espresso Martinis, Grinch Mimosas, “Tiny Tim’s Turkey Sliders” and other festive fare has been a hit, too.
“It’s amazing how if you give meatloaf a funny Christmas name, everyone orders it,” he said.
Duckpin bowling’s boozy return
Get your bowling shoes ready.
Patterson Pins, the bar and bowling alley taking the place of Eastern Avenue’s historic Patterson Bowling Center, will officially open Dec. 12.
Like its predecessor, the bar will offer duckpin bowling, a Baltimore-born pastime (or so says local lore) featuring smaller balls and pins than traditional tenpin bowling. Bowling space has been pared down to two lanes, however, to make room for other features, including a rotating selection of arcade games. Beverage director Shaun Stewart, formerly of Hampden Yards and the Bluebird Cocktail Room, has devised a video game-themed cocktail menu to pair with the entertainment.
The long-awaited lounge at 2105 Eastern Avenue fulfills a promise to the community from developers Jesse Vann and Kristian Spannhake, who bought the 95-year-old bowling alley in 2022 for $750,000 and originally planned to build apartment units and a coffee shop in its place. They decided to keep a bowling element after community members and local leaders stepped in to lobby for keeping the duckpin tradition alive. State legislators created a new beer, wine and liquor license for the bowling alley last year.
The developers told the city’s liquor board in March that they still plan to build 15 apartment units as part of the project.
A fond foodie farewell
As the year comes to a close, so does my time at The Sun. After two years as the newspaper’s dining reporter, I’m off to a new challenge.
I have savored every moment reporting on the Baltimore region’s vibrant dining scene. This beat has taken me on so many adventures — to a city high school for a sampling of school lunch, to the opening of a new Lexington Market, to a cocktail bar with a skeleton under the floorboards — and has introduced me to so many fascinating people with stories to tell.
Even after two years of focusing on food, I still have a long list of restaurants to visit. That’s part of the pleasure of the job: There’s always something new to try. I thought about this as I slurped hot pot for the first time last month at the new Broadway Hotpot & Bar in Fells Point and as I ate my way through an autumn taco tour with Sun columnist Dan Rodricks (for those who don’t know — I’m sure many already do — Tortilleria Sinaloa is an excellent place to find handmade tortillas, at $4.50 a kilo).
Another joy has been interacting with Baltimore’s diners. Thank you for your messages, recommendations and tips. I hope you will keep in touch: Though I will no longer be reporting on food, I will be staying in Baltimore, and plan to continue exploring the city’s fantastic bars and restaurants — this time, off the clock.
Have a news tip? Contact reporter Amanda Yeager at ayeager@baltsun.com, 443-790-1738 or @amandacyeager on X.