In the wide world of wonderful wine drinking, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc lead the parade by far. None of the grapes reviewed in this article even make the top 20 in the world. That’s the point of this review.
There is a plethora of grapes grown around the world that are just begging to be sampled — if only you could know where to look. And summer is the time to look.
About 600 different white grape varieties are grown around the world, and most consumers have only tasted a handful of them. That leaves a whole bunch (no pun intended) for wine lovers to seek.
We’ve done some of the work for you in this column, but keep in mind there are still many other white grape varieties to explore than those mentioned here.
And, the good news is that many of these sometimes-obscure grape varieties are available in the U.S., albeit mostly in fine wine stores. These wines are often inexpensive and can provide an interesting and satisfying tasting experience, especially in hot weather.
Finding these wines can be a hit-or-miss proposition, so seeking out an experienced wine salesman at a fine wine store can expedite your search. Tell the salesperson what you are looking for, or better, inquire as to the availability of lesser-known wines in their store.
Most experienced wine salespersons have a few obscurities they would love to share. And, if you can’t find the particular producer we mention, consider other producers using the same grape variety.
A recent tasting of five lesser-known white wines inspired us to share our impressions — four of the five were Italian and one Spanish. For some reason, our experience indicates that the Italians vinify and export more grape varieties than any other country. Following are our tasting notes:
Probably the most well-known of the white wines we tasted was the Riva Leone Gavi DOCG 2021 ($15). Hailing from the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy, where red wines such as barolo, barbaresco and barbera dominate attention. We enjoyed the bargain price as well as the citrus, mineral, apple and peach notes with abundant palate-quenching acidity. A real winner for fish and chicken dishes.
Attems Trebes Ribolla Gialla Collio DOC 2020 ($35) is made from an indigenous white grape from Northeastern Italy that is gaining popularity. We perceived lemon and lime notes, a hint of straw and bright acidity as hallmarks of this delicious wine.
Nic Tartigalia Pecorino Colline Pescaresi IGT 2020 ($15-20) is indigenous to Abruzzo. This version is another winner and worth considering. Bright full bodied candied apple with caramel and subtle floral notes. A bold, pleasing wine.
Ferentano Cotarella Bianco Lazio IGP 2019 ($25-30) is an interesting white wine crafted from the roscetto grape outside of Rome. Just a hint of oak pairs with plum and tropical fruit notes blend in a rich package.
Alvaredos-Hobbs Godello Ribeira Sacra D.O. 2020 ($35) is the result of a partnership between Paul Hobbs of California fame and Antonio Lopez Fernandez. The Galicia region of Spain is home to many wines made from the albarino grape. Ripe plum and apple notes dominate with some oak. Very rich and smooth.
Vale do Bomfim Douro White 2022 ($15) from Portugal is representative of the value to be found in this often-forgotten wine region. There are so many great wines for the price coming from the northern region. The grapes in this white blend include viosinho, rabigato, gouveio and arinto. You never heard of them, right? It doesn’t matter, just enjoy it. Very subtle notes of peach and pineapple with a dash of minerality. Enjoyable just to sip on the patio.
Alois Legeder Porer Pinot Grigio IGT 2021 ($30) comes partially from grapes that are immediately pressed after harvest to keep the freshness. Another portion of the grapes is macerated on its skins for 15 hours. A third portion is exposed to stems and skins for a year. The result is a beautifully textured wine with enough tannin and acidity to make it a perfect match with seafood.
Inama Carbonare Soave Classico DOC 2021 ($30) is a fantastic soave. Made from old-vine garganega vineyards located on the slopes of a dormant volcano, the wine has citrus, white peach and apple notes with fresh acidity and a rich, lingering finish.
Tenuta Whitaker Mozia Grillo Sicilia DOC 2022 ($25). We like grillo as an alternative to pinot grigio and even chardonnay. It has good acidity, pure fruit character with stone fruit and apple notes accented with minerality.
Pinot grigos
Marco Felluga Mongris Collo Pinot Grigio DOC 022 ($21). With grapes grown in mineral-rich but poor soils in the Collio region of Italy, this pinot gris has bright and fresh floral aromas with apple and pear flavors.
Alois Lageder Porer Vigneti delle Dolomiti Pinot Grigio IGT 2022 ($30). With a little more complexity and richness than most pinot grigios, this version from the Alto Adige region is very fresh with a note of minerality and apple flavors.
Riff Delle Venezie Pinot Grigio DOC 2022 ($12). A great value, this pinot grigio has simple apple and pear notes. A great sipper on a warm afternoon.
CK Mondavi California Pinot Grigio 2022 ($8). Classic peach and pear notes with a dash of spice dominate this reasonably priced wine.
Wine picks
Chateau Lassegue ($70). Father and son team Pierre and Nicolas Seillan have turned up the quality of this property since it was granted grand cru classe status in 2022. Merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon combine to deliver a full-bodied, generously flavored wine to pair with a good steak.
Passo delle Mule Sicilia DOC 2022 ($29). This is another terrific value from Sicily. It has intense aromas with lively cherry, raspberry and plum flavors. We loved this wine.
Argentiera Pollgio ai Ginepri 2022 ($34). This super-Tuscan wine from Bolgheri is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot. Good, soft tannins with cherry and plum notes and full body.
Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr have been writing a weekly, syndicated wine column since 1985. See their blog at moreaboutwine.com. They can be reached at marq1948@gmail.com.